May 12-13, 2004, Sulphide Glacier-Mt. Shuksan

After taking our final glimpses of the Washington-Rainy Pass area we (now again the threesome of Mike, Adam and John) descended to the west side of the North Cascades.  With permit in hand and time to burn we started the shuksan approach at 5pm via the Sulphide Glacier Route. It took about a mile and the 3000 ft mark before we reached skinable snow and set camp at dust at 3900' .  The next morning we got under way around 6:30am with clear skies and jaw dropping views of Baker's east side.  This view, however, doesn't hold a candle to the first glimpses of shuksan's summit pyramid. It is honestly like a punch in the face watching it rise higher and higher above you the closer you get to it! I recall the phrase, "were going up that f#^&er?!!". The skinning conditions were a little slippery in places but overall quite fast. By noon we were at the base of the summit pyramid and by 1:30pm  only 200' vert. from the summit where we called it quits. The snow conditions had become unskiable to even the insane, 2'' of slush on top of bullet proof ice.  After a 50' in-control power slide, on edge (scary), the conditions went to manageable and then primo. Two hours later we had torn camp down and were starting the dirt trudge out.  By 7pm we were in position for the boulder glacier approach of Baker the next day.