June 20, 2004, Mt Adams - SW Chutes
6/20/04
WA Cascades West Slopes South (Mt Rainier)
7892
15
Optimistic that electrical storm activity would move northward on Sunday, we (Josh Stern (Ned_Flanders), Ryan Forsyth, Ben Kunz, and I) headed out from the Ravenna P & R Sat. morning towards Mt. Adams. Optimism was a bit dim with our first view of the mountain near Trout Lake, as huge cumulous clouds, dark sky, and squalls surrounded much of Adams.
The road was clear of snow all the way to the trailhead at Cold Springs, where we joined the masses of parked cars.
Snow was very patchy for about the first mile, but we doned skins at ~6,000-ft elev., where snow coverage became consistent on the trail, and ascended to our base camp location on a wide ridge near tree line proximal to Morrison Creek; just about every snow-free flat spot around tree line seemed to occupied by a tent, but not too surprising.
The weather cleared quickly after sunset, and we began our ascent of the traditional south spur route at ~3 a.m., which in retrospect was a bit too early. Josh and I skinned up to the false summit with aid of ski-pons, Ryan used the standard technique prefered by most parties (boot crampons), and Ben "booted" up without the aid of metal. The chilling wind was relentless above ~10,000 ft >:(
After a thrilling descent on boiler-plate ice off the main summit at ~10 am; we waited with several other groups on the false summit for the sun to hopefully soften the Southwest chutes before our main descent.
A group of 2 snowboarders led the way at ~11 am, with boards chattering on icy snow. Optimistic that the snow would be softer down lower, we followed next @ 11:15...
The upper ~1,000-ft was icy but "edgeable", which transitioned into spectacular freshly-softened corn by ~10,000-ft elev....making for many fast and thrilling turns all the way down to ~7,500-ft elev., where we began our traverse southeasterly back to the south spur route. By this time we could see several other skiers on the 4,000+ vert. foot descent of the SW chutes. We made a slow rising travese with skins to get back up to the ridgetop separating us from the Morrison Creek draininge, and enjoyed a few quick turns dropping into the basin, and traversed back to camp.
The ski down from camp was enjoyable on well-softened corn snow, followed by some interested "tree skiing" below 6,000 ft; Josh and Ben removed skis/board at ~6,000-ft to take the trail back down; while Ryan and I enjoyed another ~200 vert. of snow patch/rock skiing :D
The parking lot was still fairly packed with cars upon our return (~2:30 pm), with vehicles parked along side the road for ~1/4 mile or so from the trailhead.
--Chris
The road was clear of snow all the way to the trailhead at Cold Springs, where we joined the masses of parked cars.
Snow was very patchy for about the first mile, but we doned skins at ~6,000-ft elev., where snow coverage became consistent on the trail, and ascended to our base camp location on a wide ridge near tree line proximal to Morrison Creek; just about every snow-free flat spot around tree line seemed to occupied by a tent, but not too surprising.
The weather cleared quickly after sunset, and we began our ascent of the traditional south spur route at ~3 a.m., which in retrospect was a bit too early. Josh and I skinned up to the false summit with aid of ski-pons, Ryan used the standard technique prefered by most parties (boot crampons), and Ben "booted" up without the aid of metal. The chilling wind was relentless above ~10,000 ft >:(
After a thrilling descent on boiler-plate ice off the main summit at ~10 am; we waited with several other groups on the false summit for the sun to hopefully soften the Southwest chutes before our main descent.
A group of 2 snowboarders led the way at ~11 am, with boards chattering on icy snow. Optimistic that the snow would be softer down lower, we followed next @ 11:15...
The upper ~1,000-ft was icy but "edgeable", which transitioned into spectacular freshly-softened corn by ~10,000-ft elev....making for many fast and thrilling turns all the way down to ~7,500-ft elev., where we began our traverse southeasterly back to the south spur route. By this time we could see several other skiers on the 4,000+ vert. foot descent of the SW chutes. We made a slow rising travese with skins to get back up to the ridgetop separating us from the Morrison Creek draininge, and enjoyed a few quick turns dropping into the basin, and traversed back to camp.
The ski down from camp was enjoyable on well-softened corn snow, followed by some interested "tree skiing" below 6,000 ft; Josh and Ben removed skis/board at ~6,000-ft to take the trail back down; while Ryan and I enjoyed another ~200 vert. of snow patch/rock skiing :D
The parking lot was still fairly packed with cars upon our return (~2:30 pm), with vehicles parked along side the road for ~1/4 mile or so from the trailhead.
--Chris
... and for those who like the visuals:
;D
;D
Nice shot! Both of those 2 main chutes below the false summit are great ski descents! Thanks for posting a pic :)
Ditto on the sweet pic!
It was my first time on the mountain and the SW Chutes are definitely the way to go. Although it is funny how 19/20 circus animals opt to descend down the south spur.
It was also nice to meet some more TAY folk on the false summit.
Joshua
It was my first time on the mountain and the SW Chutes are definitely the way to go. Although it is funny how 19/20 circus animals opt to descend down the south spur.
It was also nice to meet some more TAY folk on the false summit.
Joshua
Great shot, Tim! Is it correct to assume that the photo was taken this past weekend (just trying to imagine how long the coverage will last - hopefully until I have a chance to get down there)?
The picture is a cropping of this shot:
http://media.admcs.wwu.edu/video/test/adams/adams.JPG.
It was taken last Sunday morning at about 11 AM from Highway 23. The skiing on the SW chutes should last into July.
http://media.admcs.wwu.edu/video/test/adams/adams.JPG.
It was taken last Sunday morning at about 11 AM from Highway 23. The skiing on the SW chutes should last into July.
Nice photo, spirited report...though the guy credited with the circus animal remark shouldn't bash his estimate of the 95% of those that chose not to follow his route. Please note the distinction between skill and vanity.
Nice photo, spirited report...though the guy credited with the circus animal remark shouldn't bash his estimate of the 95% of those that chose not to follow his route. Please note the distinction between skill and vanity.Oh PUh-lease. 'Bashing'? Give me a break. It IS strange how the vast majority of people do the same thing, when solitude and adventure (relative, of course) can be found a few paces away.
Hackles down, everyone! ;)
I don't think it was quite "bashing," nor do I think it odd or surprising that a large number of folks follow the easier and more straightforward route. "Adventure" is relative to one's own sense of limits. And some people just have fun on mellow terrain while getting a bit gripped on steeper slopes (again, steep is relative, eh? SW chutes are just about right for me now, but would have been too much the first time I skied Adams).
I don't think it was quite "bashing," nor do I think it odd or surprising that a large number of folks follow the easier and more straightforward route. "Adventure" is relative to one's own sense of limits. And some people just have fun on mellow terrain while getting a bit gripped on steeper slopes (again, steep is relative, eh? SW chutes are just about right for me now, but would have been too much the first time I skied Adams).
Yep - Jim's right.
I skied Adams a half a dozen times before I skied the SW Chutes.
And if you want to camp higher on the mountain it does not make it very convenient to ski the SW Chutes.
I skied Adams a half a dozen times before I skied the SW Chutes.
And if you want to camp higher on the mountain it does not make it very convenient to ski the SW Chutes.
My previous comment wasn't intended to bash anyone, sorry if it did. It was just good old forum satire. It actually had more to do with the total number of people on the route that day and maybe the non skier/snowboarder types.
I do know the distinction between skill and vanity and obviously I was not the first explorer on the mountain.
I do know the distinction between skill and vanity and obviously I was not the first explorer on the mountain.
With the high temperatures and prevailing high winds, the snow is melting out quickly - the road to Cold Springs campground is all clear now except for a patch about 50 feet from the parking lot (which one of the 3 cars in the lot Tuesday managed to get high-centered on). There is (as of Wednesday 4:00 PM) about a 2 mile skiboot hike from the TH to skinnable snow, you might consider bringing some trail runners. Also the rock bands between the SW Chutes and the trail are much barer than last week's posted picture, Amar's route down to the Round-the-Mountain trail might be a better choice if you don't have gear stashed higher on the mountain.
It's melting out that fast, huh? Damn, so much for another north side trip. >:(
Might hit the chutes this weekend, though.
Might hit the chutes this weekend, though.
Here's an idea.
How about taking the round the mountain trail, booting the SW chutes, and avoiding 19 out of 20 circus animals altogether ;).
I'm only half kidding about the route. I have an overhead (can't spell aireal) photo of Adams that I swear has a boot pack all the way up the SW chutes.
How about taking the round the mountain trail, booting the SW chutes, and avoiding 19 out of 20 circus animals altogether ;).
I'm only half kidding about the route. I have an overhead (can't spell aireal) photo of Adams that I swear has a boot pack all the way up the SW chutes.
I've actually considered doing that, Wickstad. And in my dementia fogged brain I seem to remember a TR from somewhere in which the climbers booted up that way.
It might work pretty well if it was earlier in the season so that the snow was unconsolidated enough for good boot purchase.
I usually climb adams so late in the season that the Chutes are usually refrozen corn (read that boilerplate) early morning. So any stumble or trip (which I do a lot) could mean an unplanned 3-4k ft poor-form glissade. I tend to favor the south climb for the upclimb 'cause the sun hits it, usually by 7 am at the latest and it is a more forgiving fall. The sun usually doesn't start beating on the sw chutes 'till a couple of hours later. Thus, it usually seems to take 'til 12-2 for the corn to really sweeten. And, of course, we've been on the south climb when we didn't get the sun we'd hoped for, to cook the chutes. Once we got to the hard crust on such a cold overcast day we just turned around, knowing that a fall on the chutes that day would possibly be a slide for the rest of our life.
It might work pretty well if it was earlier in the season so that the snow was unconsolidated enough for good boot purchase.
I usually climb adams so late in the season that the Chutes are usually refrozen corn (read that boilerplate) early morning. So any stumble or trip (which I do a lot) could mean an unplanned 3-4k ft poor-form glissade. I tend to favor the south climb for the upclimb 'cause the sun hits it, usually by 7 am at the latest and it is a more forgiving fall. The sun usually doesn't start beating on the sw chutes 'till a couple of hours later. Thus, it usually seems to take 'til 12-2 for the corn to really sweeten. And, of course, we've been on the south climb when we didn't get the sun we'd hoped for, to cook the chutes. Once we got to the hard crust on such a cold overcast day we just turned around, knowing that a fall on the chutes that day would possibly be a slide for the rest of our life.
Here's an idea.
How about taking the round the mountain trail, booting the SW chutes, and avoiding 19 out of 20 circus animals altogether ;).
I'm only half kidding about the route. I have an overhead (can't spell aireal) photo of Adams that I swear has a boot pack all the way up the SW chutes.
I went up a couple of years ago to do it this way. Camped in the big sand basin (maybe around 7K) a ridge below the chutes. That night a wind storm came in which lasted into the next day. As we were cramponing up the hard surface early the next morning, we were also on the constant outlook for rocks that were flying down. After going up about 1/3 of the chutes, we decided to head down rather than take the chance of becoming a human bowling pins. Problem was it was still early and the surface still pretty hard.
Initiating that first turn was the hardest turn from a psychological point of view that I've ever done. I knew if I didn't make it successfully, I'd probably slide to the bottom. Turned out just fine, skiable, but on our edge the whole way. Despite that experience, I'd still like to try it again sometime.
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