May 15-16, 2010, Mt. Shuksan via White Salmon Gl
5/15/10
WA Cascades West Slopes North (Mt Baker)
2456
0
What a grand tour! The White Salmon is a lot of fun. The need to cross three glaciers adds a certain big mountain feel even though technically the route is quite easy.
With the exception of short bushwack between the bottom of Chair 8 and White Salmon creek we skied all the way from the car to the bottom of the summit pyramid. Lots of stuff coming down off Shuksan Arm. The weekend turned out to be quite warm and the spring "cleaning" was in full force. We picked as safe route as possible staying on the spine on the right side of the White Salmon Gl.
Camped just below Winnie Slide. Left at 5:30 AM for the summit. The route is in great shape, crevasses opening but we did not feel the need to rope up although we had harnesses on. The summit pyramid has good snow coverage and is skiable, somebody did that on Saturday judging from the tracks. On Sunday the snow did not soften and the whole couloir was a bit of mess from all the bootpacking so skiing was out of question but if you get there soon the coverage is good.
On Sunday afternoon White Salmon Glacier was isothermal.
Lost two tents to wind while we climbed on Sunday morning. One was recovered from the bottom of White Salmon Gl, the other got stuck in a crevasse and was not retrieved due to avalanche danger. The snow can melt really fast, I had my tent anchored with four bag anchors that were buried at least a foot down. When I came back two bags were almost on the surface.
Slideshow:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/runningclouds/sets/72157623977012593/
With the exception of short bushwack between the bottom of Chair 8 and White Salmon creek we skied all the way from the car to the bottom of the summit pyramid. Lots of stuff coming down off Shuksan Arm. The weekend turned out to be quite warm and the spring "cleaning" was in full force. We picked as safe route as possible staying on the spine on the right side of the White Salmon Gl.
Camped just below Winnie Slide. Left at 5:30 AM for the summit. The route is in great shape, crevasses opening but we did not feel the need to rope up although we had harnesses on. The summit pyramid has good snow coverage and is skiable, somebody did that on Saturday judging from the tracks. On Sunday the snow did not soften and the whole couloir was a bit of mess from all the bootpacking so skiing was out of question but if you get there soon the coverage is good.
On Sunday afternoon White Salmon Glacier was isothermal.
Lost two tents to wind while we climbed on Sunday morning. One was recovered from the bottom of White Salmon Gl, the other got stuck in a crevasse and was not retrieved due to avalanche danger. The snow can melt really fast, I had my tent anchored with four bag anchors that were buried at least a foot down. When I came back two bags were almost on the surface.
Slideshow:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/runningclouds/sets/72157623977012593/
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