June 3, 2004, Foss Peak
6/3/04
2464
1
I actually got to the TH early and noticed an old boot path near the steep upper bowl. The lower approach slope enters an avalanche debris filled basin which is easily skinned. The next basin on climbers left has a steep gully which seemed to have an old boot pack track or I chose the shorter and steeper boot pack up the middle slope. This would have been a great place for an ice axe(it's on the list for my next outing). The climb is only 200vf and then you enter a large open slope that is clearly visible from the Stevens Canyon Road. This slope runs between The Castle and Foss Peak. Once on top of this slope it becomes obvious that an easier but longer approach would be from The Castle and travel easterly to the base of Foss Peak. The open slopes to the summit of Foss have a pleasant pitch. I finally crossed the "boot pack track" that I had viewed from the road and realized it was a mountain goat track. The summit of Foss is 6524' and provides a great view of the south Tatoosh Range. I also had a great view of Unicorn Peak, the beautiful run between Unicorn and its adjacent summit, Unicorn Glacier and the runs down to Snow Lake.
Ron J, I have some photos of your tracks from your Tatoosh trip on a sunny day from up high. Send me a PM if you want them.
While lounging on the summit, I saw some new tracks appear on the Unicorn Glacier during the hour I was napping. Pulled out the binoculars and retraced the tracks and noticed 3 mountain goats working the bowl. I spent an hour watching the trio ascend a couloir that I would have avoided even with an ice axe and crampons.
The upper face of Foss faces westerly and the top 200vf were very slushy at noon. Then the first steep pitch rolls NW and it was 2'' of slush on a firm base. The next pitch is a narrow gully with a north aspect and it had 1" of corn on a solid base and the final slot has a NW aspect with slush due to the low elevation. Today's FL was 12,000 so the lower elevations were soft. This is a great tour with about 1800vf. It is probably best with a FL below 10,000. Although the approach from The Castle is longer and would require a car shuttle or hitchhiking back to Reflections Lake, it eliminates the need to boot pack a 200vf steep face. It also provides an alternative entrance to the Unicorn Glacier runs. Zap
Ron J, I have some photos of your tracks from your Tatoosh trip on a sunny day from up high. Send me a PM if you want them.
While lounging on the summit, I saw some new tracks appear on the Unicorn Glacier during the hour I was napping. Pulled out the binoculars and retraced the tracks and noticed 3 mountain goats working the bowl. I spent an hour watching the trio ascend a couloir that I would have avoided even with an ice axe and crampons.
The upper face of Foss faces westerly and the top 200vf were very slushy at noon. Then the first steep pitch rolls NW and it was 2'' of slush on a firm base. The next pitch is a narrow gully with a north aspect and it had 1" of corn on a solid base and the final slot has a NW aspect with slush due to the low elevation. Today's FL was 12,000 so the lower elevations were soft. This is a great tour with about 1800vf. It is probably best with a FL below 10,000. Although the approach from The Castle is longer and would require a car shuttle or hitchhiking back to Reflections Lake, it eliminates the need to boot pack a 200vf steep face. It also provides an alternative entrance to the Unicorn Glacier runs. Zap
This is a great tour, Zap.
I, too, prefer the "2nd car variation". It does seem easiest to me to access it from Castle saddle.
I'd love to see the pics you took, and I suspect the rest of the gang would, too. We couldn't see much when we put in the ones on the Unicorn.
I, too, prefer the "2nd car variation". It does seem easiest to me to access it from Castle saddle.
I'd love to see the pics you took, and I suspect the rest of the gang would, too. We couldn't see much when we put in the ones on the Unicorn.
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