19-21 Feb Mt Stuart. Ice Cliff and Sherpa Glaciers
2/15/10
WA Cascades East Slopes Central
4233
8
Yo.
Left Seattle at 11.00 Friday to go to try to circumnavigate Mt Stuart really fast and test the prototype snowboard binding I had made.
The late departure coupled and some miscommunication with two ski-climber dudes we met lead us up the Argonaut-Sherpa drainage, and it was dark before we corrected, with some difficulty into Mountaineer Creek, having to camp below the meadows.
Moving at 8.00, we got to the foot of the ice cliff by 11.30. Climbed the snow ramps to the climbers left avoiding all the glacier ice. Crossed the glacier and the minimal bergschrund on a bridge and hauled ass up the couloir on generally good snow. The cornice was there at the top at 5.00pm with a big gap you could drive a car through.
We looked into the dark white-blue Sherpa glacier, and decided to forego descent, dig a snowhole and ski the morning. It was very cold and next time we will be packing a stove. I love space blankets.
Sunday. All thought of circumnavigation were off. We assessed the south slopes: scoured, no crowns, looking good in the sunlight, but the hike out¦So ultimately after much conjecture we roped into the Sherpa Glacier, worried about windslab and descended on safe belays, only to meet Clark, friend and Russian dude strolling down from above having followed our previous days path up the ice cliff. Nice guys one and all, moving fast.
Skied the Sherpa Glacier on good powder through three debris-fields. Went home a bit late. Ari , Victor, Jake. Big thanks to Lisa & Crystal for looking out for us when we came in late.
Snowboarding with a full pack sucks because it pulls you off balance.
6 beers and it all seems fine!
Left Seattle at 11.00 Friday to go to try to circumnavigate Mt Stuart really fast and test the prototype snowboard binding I had made.
The late departure coupled and some miscommunication with two ski-climber dudes we met lead us up the Argonaut-Sherpa drainage, and it was dark before we corrected, with some difficulty into Mountaineer Creek, having to camp below the meadows.
Moving at 8.00, we got to the foot of the ice cliff by 11.30. Climbed the snow ramps to the climbers left avoiding all the glacier ice. Crossed the glacier and the minimal bergschrund on a bridge and hauled ass up the couloir on generally good snow. The cornice was there at the top at 5.00pm with a big gap you could drive a car through.
We looked into the dark white-blue Sherpa glacier, and decided to forego descent, dig a snowhole and ski the morning. It was very cold and next time we will be packing a stove. I love space blankets.
Sunday. All thought of circumnavigation were off. We assessed the south slopes: scoured, no crowns, looking good in the sunlight, but the hike out¦So ultimately after much conjecture we roped into the Sherpa Glacier, worried about windslab and descended on safe belays, only to meet Clark, friend and Russian dude strolling down from above having followed our previous days path up the ice cliff. Nice guys one and all, moving fast.
Skied the Sherpa Glacier on good powder through three debris-fields. Went home a bit late. Ari , Victor, Jake. Big thanks to Lisa & Crystal for looking out for us when we came in late.
Snowboarding with a full pack sucks because it pulls you off balance.
6 beers and it all seems fine!
Something about this TR brings the word "understatement" to mind.... 8)
Ha, Yes. I may have left out the word EPIC.
Victor & Ari have pictures of our glorious accommodation, which you will find at the top of the Sherpa Glacier because we forgot to bash it down! Feel free to stop in - it's got a really comfortable rock in it!
Victor & Ari have pictures of our glorious accommodation, which you will find at the top of the Sherpa Glacier because we forgot to bash it down! Feel free to stop in - it's got a really comfortable rock in it!
thanks for the tr. i love the ice cliff. sherpa is nice too.
nice! I would like to see a picture of your bindings. great tr. props!
cornRIDE
cornRIDE
I'm a few months into the binding project and may do a little Seattle-based production run after one more round of modifications....and you know how photo's roam around the t'internet on their own if you let them out...
But I'm totally happy to let you see them, test them etc. PM me. They're designed to work with Boreal Kangri's http://www.e-boreal.com/ing/comienzo.htm
Jake
But I'm totally happy to let you see them, test them etc. PM me. They're designed to work with Boreal Kangri's http://www.e-boreal.com/ing/comienzo.htm
Jake
Nice write up Jake, does not sound as epic as it was. I am most certainly glad I was not able to join you guys, knowing the trip would be more than the allotted two days you gave yourselves.
I was on the phone with the Chelan County Sheriffs office at 7:00 p.m. on Sunday when Victor finally called on the other line. Damn, that was good timing. Crystal and I had spent much time vacillating on the decision to call in a rescue and with Victors wife in duress and your childrens sitter the same, 24 hours overdue I finally made the dreaded call.
Thanks for sharing the report and photos, I look forward to seeing Victors as well. I know you all got hugs and lashings from your wives, hopefully they will still let you get out and play again soon.
Cheerio!!
I was on the phone with the Chelan County Sheriffs office at 7:00 p.m. on Sunday when Victor finally called on the other line. Damn, that was good timing. Crystal and I had spent much time vacillating on the decision to call in a rescue and with Victors wife in duress and your childrens sitter the same, 24 hours overdue I finally made the dreaded call.
Thanks for sharing the report and photos, I look forward to seeing Victors as well. I know you all got hugs and lashings from your wives, hopefully they will still let you get out and play again soon.
Cheerio!!
24 hours is about right. Nice work Jake & crew -- way to make the most of the beautiful weather. I'd love to see the proto binding pics too.
Full set of pictures of the route at : http://picasaweb.google.com/victormesny/MtStuartIceCliffSherpa#
Merci Lisa, merci Crystal.
Merci Lisa, merci Crystal.
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