2 Septiembre, 2009; Cerro Hermanos, Ushuaia

Meat and bread.  So simple, yet so delicious, the empanada has become a staple of our backcountry diet.  After Juan Pablo's wife Elena graced us with hers for our tour of Cerro Bonéte we've been vacuuming them into our mouths whenever the opportunity strikes.  To our great delight, we found a pizza and empanada shop about a block away from our hotel.  The lord works in meaty and delicious ways.

With a variable forecast for our last two days in Ushuaia, we picked today for an exploratory tour in the hopes that we'd get a break in the weather.  We got lucky.

With a 1:65,000 scale map in hand, we'd set our sites on the north side of the ridge that connects Cerro Hermanos with Cerro Olivia, two of the most prominent peaks on the coast and Ushuaia's most dramatic backdrop.  We left from the same pullout that we'd used for Bonéte (this was the other option we'd had for Sunday) and climbed through the lengas trees that the mountains wear like a skirt.  Progress was easier than expected and we soon left the forest behind.

As the views improved, we noticed some signs of recent avalanche activity.  It's been surprising to me how little activity we've seen, given how steep and heavily wind-loaded everything here seems to be.  Perhaps it's the low elevation and maritime climate that helps things to consolidate so quickly.  We did a few tests and discussed the conditions, foregoing an appetizing line in favor of more exploration.

The east-facing slopes had treated us well so far, so we climbed a long, protected gully and reached the first of two broad cols, each giving magnificent views of Tierra Major.  The other, perhaps more exciting, perk was the absence of wind -- El Viento gave us a reprieve today and, as the afternoon wore on, the flat light and high clouds started to peel away, revealing contours in the terrain both large-scale and small.

At the valley floor again, I think it dawned on us that our trip was winding down, slowly ending.  As that set in, we realized that it wouldn't be responsible to leave before we tracked the hell out of our little bowl.  Deep skin tracks were set.  Face shots were had.  Laps ensued.

Tomorrow is the last ski day on the schedule.  Will the forecast 55 km/h winds bear fruit?  We'll find out in a few hours.

Either way, we'll be packing empanadas.