May 23-25, 2009, Snowfield Peak
5/23/09
1767
0
This is gonna be a quick one.
Went up this weekend, joining three friends (all on snowshoes) who were wanting to do Snowfield Peak. After Pyramid lake, we had a tough time staying on the climbers path. Saw some others going for a two-day Snowfield attempt. Skinnable snow only at 4300ft knoll, and made sure to traverse on climber's right of ridgeline. Saw the avy path underneath Pyramid peak, and decided to wait to get to Colonial glacier till morning. Started going up Sunday at 4:30. Found out that the other group had apparently bailed on summit plans because of Avy Danger?It was slow, and because I had plastic boots, I had to kick (and post hole!) the steps necessary to traverse to Colonial. Dropped overnight gear at the base of Colonial Glacier, jogged up to the Col between the Neve and Colonial. Saw some skin tracks on the Neve. Got down and to the base of Snowfield with no glacier gear (it was super consolidated). Started Ascending by 9:30. 'Enjoyed' some scrambling on my Garmont boots that have no more edging or toeing rubber. Got up to a false 'summit' Followed some boot pack across a gulley. My partners fell tired so I soloed the rest of the way, following boot pack in snow going over occasional 4/5th class rock (again in my crap-boots). Got to the top, wished I had brought my skiis (the snow was like powder), but alas there was no simple line continuous down to the Neve. Boot packed down and skiied from a steep gully 300ft lower and a bit to climbers right of the summit. Made it back to camp, and sleeping by 6pm. Woke up balls early and departed to traverse the Pyramid avalanche path before the sun's arousing kiss unleashed the snow's untapped fury. Back at the car by 12:00. Man I need to get my friends on skis...
Some pictures:
Panorama from the Neve/Colonial Col.
Panorama from summit.
Sunrise over jack mt.
More photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/BNw-VQiv4iV1BfpQXuJFIw?authkey=Gv1sRgCImPwcTa6ZDQ5QE&feat=directlink
Different TR by my friend Brian: http://students.washington.edu/climb/forum/viewtopic.php?f=34&p=27115#p27115
Went up this weekend, joining three friends (all on snowshoes) who were wanting to do Snowfield Peak. After Pyramid lake, we had a tough time staying on the climbers path. Saw some others going for a two-day Snowfield attempt. Skinnable snow only at 4300ft knoll, and made sure to traverse on climber's right of ridgeline. Saw the avy path underneath Pyramid peak, and decided to wait to get to Colonial glacier till morning. Started going up Sunday at 4:30. Found out that the other group had apparently bailed on summit plans because of Avy Danger?It was slow, and because I had plastic boots, I had to kick (and post hole!) the steps necessary to traverse to Colonial. Dropped overnight gear at the base of Colonial Glacier, jogged up to the Col between the Neve and Colonial. Saw some skin tracks on the Neve. Got down and to the base of Snowfield with no glacier gear (it was super consolidated). Started Ascending by 9:30. 'Enjoyed' some scrambling on my Garmont boots that have no more edging or toeing rubber. Got up to a false 'summit' Followed some boot pack across a gulley. My partners fell tired so I soloed the rest of the way, following boot pack in snow going over occasional 4/5th class rock (again in my crap-boots). Got to the top, wished I had brought my skiis (the snow was like powder), but alas there was no simple line continuous down to the Neve. Boot packed down and skiied from a steep gully 300ft lower and a bit to climbers right of the summit. Made it back to camp, and sleeping by 6pm. Woke up balls early and departed to traverse the Pyramid avalanche path before the sun's arousing kiss unleashed the snow's untapped fury. Back at the car by 12:00. Man I need to get my friends on skis...
Some pictures:
Panorama from the Neve/Colonial Col.
Panorama from summit.
Sunrise over jack mt.
More photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/BNw-VQiv4iV1BfpQXuJFIw?authkey=Gv1sRgCImPwcTa6ZDQ5QE&feat=directlink
Different TR by my friend Brian: http://students.washington.edu/climb/forum/viewtopic.php?f=34&p=27115#p27115
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