Home > Trip Reports > May 15-16, 2009, Mt Logan via Douglas Glacier

May 15-16, 2009, Mt Logan via Douglas Glacier

5/15/09
3600
5
Posted by Oyvind_Henningsen on 5/17/09 2:54pm
Tobae, Monika, Dave and I had a super chill two day trip to Mount Logan Friday and Saturday.  Drove up to Easy Pass trailhead Thursday night after a stop at Tootsie's in Marblemount.  A good night sleep saw us heading up towards Easy Pass around 6:30 am, nothing like skinning from the car!  It was a nice skin up to Easy Pass and we were happy to see that it was continuous snow down to Fisher Creek.  Not so happy to see how far it was to go to get to Logan! 

We made a W trending descent towards the creek and followed the creek on its N side down to about 4800 (?) where we crossed to the S side.  We continued along side Fisher Creek till about 4000 when we took a left and and headed S up the creek draining from the Douglas Glacier.  The area between 4000 and about 4600 appears very swampy and would probably provide not so nice travel when not covered in snow.  There is a big cliff band separating the lower bowl from the upper cirque.  It was late in the day so instead of going up one to the gullies (doable) we opted for taking a left and avoiding the cliff band by a slight detour, but very enjoyable skinning in open terrain.  We skinned to 7200 and set up camp with views galore.  A toilet with a view - how about the N face of Goode? 

Saturday morning brought a slight marine layer and some high clouds.  We got a nice leisurely start allowed by such a high camp.  Easy skinning to the Banded/Douglas Col at about 8500.  We skinned a coupled hundred more and then put the skis on the pack to the false summit.  We scrambled the ridge a short section and roped up for a short pitch to the summit (30 m rope was enough).  We belayed each other up and down the summit on the (climbers) right side of the ridge.  It was exposed and coupled with the rotten snow we were happy to have brought the rope.

Getting back to our skis the sun was out in full force and we hurry-skied back to camp in order to try to preserve a little of the corn before it turned to mank (partially succesfull).  We returned by the way we came with a couple of exceptions.  We crossed Fisher Creek early and skinned up the N side of the creek (where the summer trail goes) and felt this is the preferred side for both uphill and downhill travel.  We skinned up the valley to about 5200 before we headed towards Easy Pass on a slight (climbers) right trending traverse in between cliff bands (doable but not super easy skinning in the glopp).  Ski down from Easy Pass was quite grabby, but we were super happy to have had a great trip in very good conditions. 

It probably can be done in a day with a lighter pack and a pre-dawn start. 

Way to get up there guys. Wonderful views, eh? And cool summit!


A super chill trip up Logan? Didn't realize such things happened. I'm glad everything went so smoothly for you- pretty impressive. And Tobae- I want to be like you when I grow up :)

Right on, glad all went according to plan...we were trying to spy you on the Douglas while waiting for our run to soften.  But as you note, that is a loooooong ways away.

Way to get it done.

Great job skiing a high, remote peak!  This is one of my favorite places in the North Cascades.  We skied the Douglas Glacier last spring but instead of an out and back we did a loop from Easy Pass, skiing the first portion of Lowell's Thunder High Route past Silent Lakes/Arriva Col/Spectacular Ridge to a camp near Fisher Pass.  We skied Logan on the second day and returned along your route via Fisher Creek/Easy Pass.  The extra portion adds some distance and climbing so it was two long days for us, but the stretch between Silent Lakes and Spectacular Ridge is beautiful.

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may-15-16-2009-mt-logan-via-douglas-glacier
Oyvind_Henningsen
2009-05-17 21:54:19