Feb 21/09-Spearhead Traverse
2/15/09
3628
8
Posted - 02/23/2009 : 11:12:48 AM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Photos Andy/Mike Traslin
With one more day of clear weather in the forecast and a sensitve snowpack finally stabilizing it seemed a good fit to tackle the spearhead traverse.With a lower than normall snowpack I figured it would be a good idea to pack the ropes and harnesses.Starting at eleven forty five from the Blackcomb glacier it was time to begin the journey.After a thirty minute warm up,Andy and I ramped up the pace to make sure we finished the traverse in a day.The snow was perfect for travell,four centimeters of wind effected snow,but with a track already set we were able to stay on top and keep a good rhythm.At points during the traverse it was hard passing the north facing slopes,because there was some amazing preserved snow just waiting to be skied.After four hours we were at the finall section of the traverse where you can normally ski,but with lack of snow we were forced to rapell.Right at this point we bumped into two suprised skiers from Australia,I saw them earlier as two dots a couple glaciers ahead.We let them borrow our harnesses and rope for the descent.After this it was anouther forty minutes to a good ski down Whirldwind peak.The singing pass ski out was treacherous.If you have more light I would recommend the extra effort of climbing and finish on the true route.Oboe,Flute,Piccolo.
This day marked our 15 and 17th traverse respectfully!
Food and water consumed-4 power gels-2 snickers bars - 2 cliff bars,4 bike sized water bottles with energy drink,one bite of a sandwich.
Gear 30 to 40 liter pack,down jacket,emergency blanket,rope,harness,glacier gear,avalanche gear,cell phone,gps,map,and compass,headlamp,light boot crampons
Photos Here:Unless someone can tell me how to upload the photos.
http://www.clubtread.com/sforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=29887
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Photos Andy/Mike Traslin
With one more day of clear weather in the forecast and a sensitve snowpack finally stabilizing it seemed a good fit to tackle the spearhead traverse.With a lower than normall snowpack I figured it would be a good idea to pack the ropes and harnesses.Starting at eleven forty five from the Blackcomb glacier it was time to begin the journey.After a thirty minute warm up,Andy and I ramped up the pace to make sure we finished the traverse in a day.The snow was perfect for travell,four centimeters of wind effected snow,but with a track already set we were able to stay on top and keep a good rhythm.At points during the traverse it was hard passing the north facing slopes,because there was some amazing preserved snow just waiting to be skied.After four hours we were at the finall section of the traverse where you can normally ski,but with lack of snow we were forced to rapell.Right at this point we bumped into two suprised skiers from Australia,I saw them earlier as two dots a couple glaciers ahead.We let them borrow our harnesses and rope for the descent.After this it was anouther forty minutes to a good ski down Whirldwind peak.The singing pass ski out was treacherous.If you have more light I would recommend the extra effort of climbing and finish on the true route.Oboe,Flute,Piccolo.
This day marked our 15 and 17th traverse respectfully!
Food and water consumed-4 power gels-2 snickers bars - 2 cliff bars,4 bike sized water bottles with energy drink,one bite of a sandwich.
Gear 30 to 40 liter pack,down jacket,emergency blanket,rope,harness,glacier gear,avalanche gear,cell phone,gps,map,and compass,headlamp,light boot crampons
Photos Here:Unless someone can tell me how to upload the photos.
http://www.clubtread.com/sforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=29887
You can double click once you get to the photos for a larger perspective!
Nice work! Looks like perfect weather.
For the rappel did you donate gear, or were there existing anchors?
I am fixing to get on it the first week of March.
For the rappel did you donate gear, or were there existing anchors?
I am fixing to get on it the first week of March.
There was three or four slings already in place,they seemed to be in good condition.But I will let you decide when you get to that point!
You could down climb that section,but the rock is very loose and rotten.And if you fall there is chance you could slide into the gaping slot about 100 feet skiers right!
Thanks and take care and have a good trip!
You could down climb that section,but the rock is very loose and rotten.And if you fall there is chance you could slide into the gaping slot about 100 feet skiers right!
Thanks and take care and have a good trip!
15 and 17 trips -- very impressive. I did this a couple of years ago in April and there was tons of snow. I can't imagine where you had to rapel. I'm sure you were grateful for your decision to bring a rope.
Did you encounter much in the way of opening cravasses with the low snow?
Another trip report on the Phalix glacier really shows how low the snow is this year.
Did you encounter much in the way of opening cravasses with the low snow?
Another trip report on the Phalix glacier really shows how low the snow is this year.
Yes there was more open crevasses visible than on an average year!
You had to be much more diligent and aware of the route you chose.Paying attention to details with your route findings skills was more critical.
The Phalix trip had good photos and information on the conditions to expect!
You had to be much more diligent and aware of the route you chose.Paying attention to details with your route findings skills was more critical.
The Phalix trip had good photos and information on the conditions to expect!
Proud!
I was strutting when I did that trip in 2 full days. You guys knock it off in an afternoon!
You headed down to Vertfest this weekend?
I was strutting when I did that trip in 2 full days. You guys knock it off in an afternoon!
You headed down to Vertfest this weekend?
Hey JD!
Yah the first time we did it years ago,it took 14 hours we were on secura fix's,and anouther time it took a few days because of a forced bivy.Sometimes the conditions dictate how the traverse will go.We had perfect conditions.
See you at the vert fest!
Yah the first time we did it years ago,it took 14 hours we were on secura fix's,and anouther time it took a few days because of a forced bivy.Sometimes the conditions dictate how the traverse will go.We had perfect conditions.
See you at the vert fest!
nice shots mike and andy. Kinda depressing really. There are slots open at the bottom of the usual big N faces like Fitz, Curtain and MAcbeth. The rap is at the notch between Refuse Pinnacle and the Overlord glacier. The bolts are a nice touch,. You can avoid the rap by downclimbing choss or by sneaking over the Overlord Gl at the lower col about 100m down.
Reply to this TR
Please login first: