Home > Trip Reports > January 18, 2008, Welcome to Yellow Aster Butte

January 18, 2008, Welcome to Yellow Aster Butte

1/18/08
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Posted by dberdinka on 1/19/09 3:21am
On Sunday I completed a nice tour up by Yellow Aster Butte. 

Leaving the car at 6 am in the pitch black I headed off into the deepest darkest woods of the Welcome Pass Trail.  This is always an interesting moment , the rational mind competing with the primitive instinct screaming at you to return to the fire in the cave. Fortunately by the time I encountered the fresh tracks of some sort of large animal with claws I was sufficiently committed so as to continue.

While the valley bottom was well frozen, after gaining a few hundred vertical feet everything was quite soft.  Mush would be the theme of the day as I encountered only a very thin surface crust of water ice at higher elevations that rapidly melted away in the sun.
 
Around 2800€™ I crossed a slide path that had been absolutely hammered by a huge avalanche in the recent past.  I could have continued to follow the trail, that would have been the sure thing, but what fun is that?  Why not risk getting totally hosed if it might provide a bit of adventure?  So I traded my skis for crampons and began to boot straight up the path.  Of course after a thousand feet of easy travel, the slide path morphed into a steep gully of waterfalls and cliff bands.  No matter this is easily bypassed by yarding oneself up near-vertical slide alder, pillows of rotten snow collapsing below your feet, the precipice yawning close below.

Back in the trees, deep mush was covered in icy splatter from the trees above.  Skinning did not result in progress so I postholed up the finally five hundred vertical feet instead.  At Welcome Pass I was greeted by the aforementioned glassy crust of pure water ice as well as by half-a-dozen sets of snowmobile tracks, notable mainly by the fact that the wilderness boundary lies at least five miles to the west. 

From Welcome Pass I followed the ridgeline east to ever expanding views of Tomihoy Peak and the Border Peaks.  After reaching the ridges high point a quick descent that included the copious production of exceedingly large snow donuts led to the tarn-filled basin below Yellow Aster Butte.  The snow machines have had a heyday in here with tracks continuing way up the south shoulder of Tomihoy Peak and to the summit of Yellow Aster Butte as well.  After a bit more postholing through crust followed by a steep skin in mush I reached the summit of Yellow Aster Butte at 11 am.

Time to execute the sneaky part of my plan, a 3000€™drop down the south side of the Butte that will lead directly to Twin Lakes Road.  Years ago I saw the line will touring on Goat Peak and have been patiently awaiting the alignment of perfect conditions, time off and a motivated partner.  Well I guess I€™ll take what I can get.

I skied down the obvious south ridge of the peak, the snow getting progressively mushier.  At around 5000€™ the ridge drops off into a very steep slope of trees and intermittent cliff bands.  I cut skiers right through this ending up in the drainage of the tarn-filled basin.  The bottom of the drainage is flat and open and offers enjoyable skiing.  At 4200€™ I cut hard right and traversed through open forest for a few hundred yards until I broke out into a long clearing formed by an old landslide.  Another 1000€™ vertical feet of mushy but enjoyable turns spit me out directly onto Twin Lakes Road.  Though annoyingly flat at times, descending the road went quickly and I was soon at the highway.  I few minutes of walking alongside the highway (scary!) got me back to my car six-and-a-half hours after starting.

This is a nice meaty tour with lots of variety.  I€™d estimate about 5000€™ of vertical and maybe 8 miles roundtrip.  I€™ll definitely be back again, hopefully in better snow conditions.  Not recommended if you suffer from anger management issues with snowmobilers as they will most certainly ruin your day.


Cool trip. Thanks for the info. I love it up there and wondered how it would be to ski. how are the snowmobilers getting up there? Are they just using Twin Lakes Road?

Snowmobilers come in via Canyon Creek on the backside of Church Mtn followed by the entire length of Excelsior Ridge.  I believe the wilderness boundary is near Excelsior Pass waaaay over at the west side of the ridge.

Ok, thanks, that makes sense.

author=dberdinka link=topic=11965.msg49984#msg49984 date=1232400655]
Snowmobilers come in via Canyon Creek on the backside of Church Mtn followed by the entire length of Excelsior Ridge.  I believe the wilderness boundary is near Excelsior Pass waaaay over at the west side of the ridge.


Wow, that's pretty deep into the Wilderness.  Good to know.
J

Great report, thanks -- I love seeing the less-visited places.  There's so much out there in the Cascades that just doesn't get touched.

Forest Service law enforcement is a joke.  The USFS probably doesn't even have a person and/or will to enforce the Wilderness Area boundaries.  There were fresh snowmobile tracks up there last May. 

Great TR dberdinka, thanks!  The photo is perfect for seeing the landslide you reconned.

With regards to the snowmobiles, XCJer:
author=XCJer link=topic=11965.msg50169#msg50169 date=1232592642]
Forest Service law enforcement is a joke.  The USFS probably doesn't even have a person and/or will to enforce the Wilderness Area boundaries.  There were fresh snowmobile tracks up there last May. 

Do you know if anyone has even alerted this to the Mt. Baker Ranger District?  If so, what did they say?  Yeah, budgets are non existent, and it takes some specialized winter skills (snowmobileing, bcskiing, avy assessment, etc) to get into an effective law enforcement position, but they need to be pressured a bit.
On the Leavenworth RD a grant was awarded to do snowmobile education in the Mill Creek drainage after the Stevens Pass season ended and warnings and citations were issued for encroachments in the Lake Josephine Area.  On the Cle Elum RD citations have been issued in the Ingalls, Turnpike Creek, and Solomon Creek areas in the past.  Talk to the grooming councils if Church Creek is groomed and with the help of the Mt BakerRD, warn them that grooming could stop if the incursions continue. Things can be done besides just bitching (my apologies if you have initiated an effort).
Understand, though, that if an LE officer is on snowshoes or skis it is akin to trying to find a needle in a haystack, at the pace of moving a mountain with one's bare hands.  But efforts could at least begin with a bit of pressure and an organized effort by the non motorized community.
I am sure folks in progressive B-ham would want to get involved.
I'd come up to help but we're kinda busy with these issues down here.
Good Luck,
John

"Forest Service law enforcement is a joke. "

It seems that Forest Service law enforcement is HIGHLY SELECTIVE.  No Forest Park Pass?  They'll ticket you in a hurry.

author=XCJer link=topic=11965.msg50169#msg50169 date=1232592642]
Forest Service law enforcement is a joke.  The USFS probably doesn't even have a person and/or will to enforce the Wilderness Area boundaries.  There were fresh snowmobile tracks up there last May. 

Maybe they should transfer some of those gung-ho guys from the border crossings to wilderness protection. ;)


Yeeaaaa.....

If it makes you guys feel better..... these sled necks got busted big time yesterday at Schreiber Meadows. So.......there is some law enforement presence........it's just not as good as Mr. Jack!



Can you elaborate on what they got busted for?? 


And what is the penalty? Is the fine a big enough deterant?

author=John_Morrow]Do you know if anyone has even alerted this to the Mt. Baker Ranger District?  If so, what did they say?  Yeah, budgets are non existent, and it takes some specialized winter skills (snowmobileing, bcskiing, avy assessment, etc) to get into an effective law enforcement position, but they need to be pressured a bit.
...Things can be done besides just bitching (my apologies if you have initiated an effort).
Understand, though, that if an LE officer is on snowshoes or skis it is akin to trying to find a needle in a haystack, at the pace of moving a mountain with one's bare hands.  But efforts could at least begin with a bit of pressure and an organized effort by the non motorized community.
I am sure folks in progressive B-ham would want to get involved.


I have written the Mt Baker RD two of the last three years and did not get a response.  I'll write them again.  Who's with me?

Having skied and hiked up on the Excelsior to Welcome ridge, I imagine it'd be difficult to enforce the Wilderness boundary.  The USFS law enforcement officer would have to be on a snowmobile and would possibly need to pursue them into the Wilderness, or maybe wait for violators at the Canyon Creek SnoPark (?).  They'd have to have training and equipment like you mention, in addition to a very good digital camera with a good zoom lens.  Atleast one national forest with snowmobile trespass problems has a helicopter to ID outlaw sledders.  The Mt Baker-Snoqualmie seems to have gotten hit by budget cuts harder that other national forests.

As of 2001-2003 there was only one USFS guy to patrol the backcountry area near Mt Bachelor.  He worked on skis.  I wonder/doubt he ever pinched many snowmobilers riding in off-limits areas.  A few people from the local snowmobile club patrolled the area to inform sledders.  For the snowmobilers, ignorance is bliss. 

author=Telemon link=topic=11965.msg50209#msg50209 date=1232649072]
Maybe they should transfer some of those gung-ho guys from the border crossings to wilderness protection. ;)


They should.  It'd be a better use of our tax dollars IMO.  Homeland Security ought to go up there and get Gestapo on outlaw sledders, wearing jack boots, full bore cavity searches... ;D

author=dberdinka link=topic=11965.msg50200#msg50200 date=1232641999]
"Forest Service law enforcement is a joke. "

It seems that Forest Service law enforcement is HIGHLY SELECTIVE.  No Forest Park Pass?  They'll ticket you in a hurry.


Really?  I believe you.  But, last 4 summers I've been hiking & backpacking in the North Cascades almost every set of days off and it seems on average atleast half the cars at Forest Pass trailhead parking lots do not have those permits.

The USFS can enforce the Trail Park Pass easier than wintertime backcountry closures because it's summer when seasonal employees (often college students) are working and they can easily drive to parking lots.  Plus, a good chunk of that Trail Park Pass money goes to USFS budget accounts.

--------------------------------------

I used to fight fires for 5 summers for the USFS, at 3 different forests and 1 BLM district in central Oregon.  One year, I had a bunkhouse mate who worked in Recreation.  He confessed to not doing anything about dirtbikes and ATVs on trails off-limits to motors.  On other forests, there just wasn't any staff to enforce restrictions besides LEOs who usually seemed to be elsewhere.  Then, we hear these stories about large remote districts in places like Montana where there's one LEO for like half a million acres.  This is the main reason I think USFS law enforcement is a joke.  It seems non-existent to me.

author=dberdinka link=topic=11965.msg50233#msg50233 date=1232666856]
Can you elaborate on what they got busted for??


author=Matt C link=topic=11965.msg50235#msg50235 date=1232670008]
And what is the penalty? Is the fine a big enough deterant?


This topic should probably just end, mainly due to the fact that nothing will stop sled necks. This particular group had sleds that weren't licensed, and were cited for drugs/alcohol while operating a motor vehicle, possession of stolen property, the sleds had modified exhausts (illegal).

If having a sled confiscated by the government isn't enough of a deterrant? Have you ever talked to these people? They have no due regard ..... So I'm not too sure why you think they would stop at a wilderness boundary?

On a side note........99% of sled necks obey the rules, laws, and regulations set forth by the State of Washington and beyond. I really think this is a funny topic........let's keep it going somewhere else!


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january-18-2008-welcome-to-yellow-aster-butte
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2009-01-19 11:21:05