Home > Trip Reports > January 18, 2009, – Mt. Roosevelt (attempt).

January 18, 2009, – Mt. Roosevelt (attempt).

1/18/09
WA Snoqualmie Pass
2420
4
Posted by AndyMartin on 1/18/09 12:04pm
Leaving the Alpental parking lot in mist at 0830 we had an uneventful skin to Source Lake. Spectacular piles of avalanche debris lay around, extending into the lake itself. Picking our way up through mega debris we broke out of the mist just below Snow Lake Divide. The sun was out but a 20-30 mph breeze did not make it feel particularly summery. On Snow Lake there was a vicious wind and fog pouring down from the divide, which continued all day. We skinned up the easiest approach (using ski crampons) on variable snow, ice, hardpack and debris, liberally pock-marked with ice chunks and runnels. Higher up the wind gusted more strongly and ice pellets and chunks stared coming down from the rock bands above. Just as we changed to booting in the crux chute Armin was hit in the neck by a snow chunk hard enough to draw blood. Taking that as a sign, and with a couple of hundred feet of exposure to go we beat a hasty retreat. This was about 400 feet below the true summit. The ski down was surprising enjoyable in a survival skiing way, with every kind of snow surface (except powder)! We were happy to get down to the car around 2:00 relatively unscathed. Now we€™ll have to go back again on a better day!
Lets see some triage photo's Andy!  Glad you guys were out and about.

Last photo. Looks like a fog avalanche in the background. Cool photo.
You can really get some weird atmospherics at the pass eh?

I was planning on Roosevelt on Saturday, but prior trip report photos of avy debri at Source Lake and soupy fog that morning looked less than desirable to venture through and such was my deterrent. 
Nice work going through with your plans and not letting TR's diminish your ambitions to make it happen, not that such would ever be the case for you guys.  Good call turning around when you did!

Roosevelt is one of my favorites, right up there with Triple Lakes Tour, ie: Chair Peak Circumnavigation. 


Sounds like the right move to turn around.  It's never fun to be pelted with ice and wonder if there's a big one coming down with your name on it.    I'm impressed with your positive attitude in the face of nasty sounding snow conditions! 

Speaking of "a big one with your name on it", I just found this news report:

http://www.kgw.com/news-local/stories/kgw_011709_news_climber_rescue.3239954.html

Portland Mountain Rescue crews were able to get to and assist an injured male climber near the Devil's Kitchen area of Mt. Hood on Saturday.

Video: Ice injures climber The climber, who was identified as 45-year-old Michael R. Leming of Portland, was reported to have sustained leg injuries near the 10,900 foot level of the mountain.

Jim Strovink with the Clackamas County Sheriff's Office said that Leming is a member of Portland Mountain Rescue.

He was ascending the mountain around 10:30 a.m when warm and sunny temperatures caused a large chunk of ice to come sweeping down nearby.

The force carried Leming 200 feet down the mountain.

A group of fellow Portland Mountain Rescue members were training nearby and were able to assist the man.

Strovink said Leming was suffering from two injured ankles and was unable to walk.

Crews were able to move him to the Devil's Kitchen area of the mountain where an Oregon Army National Guard UH-60 Blackhawk helicopter was brought in to pick him up.

Leming was taken to OHSU Hospital in Portland to be treated for his injuries.


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january-18-2009-a-mt-roosevelt-attempt
AndyMartin
2009-01-18 20:04:56