June 28-29, Eldorado / Austera tour

NE Flank of Eldorado and the Tepeh Towers
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Paul Cornet and I set out early on Sat morning for the Isolation Traverse from Eldorado to Pyramid Peak in 3 days dropping off a car at the Pyramid Lake TH.   From the start, we were concerned with the warm temps and lateness of the season for this trip, and had alternatives in mind.   Setting off by 9am after stopping for permits, our climb to Eldorado went smoothly, and we were pleasantly surprised by the firmness of the snow and cool breeze on a hot day with only a few other parties en route for such a nice day.  The creek crossing went easily, and we carried skis to just beyond the boulder field where the snow began with consistency. 


Approaching Eldorado on the Eldorado Glacier
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After 6400' of gain with full packs, we found that the heat had taken its toll on our energy by the time we reached our bivy at Tepeh Col about 6pm.  With much of the traverse in view, we also found concern with thin snow coverage around Isolation Peak and potential bergshrund problems at the Backbone Ridge crossing without a good freeze overnight.  Doubts emerged about continuing, as we discussion options.

 
Left, bivy site at Tepeh Col. Right, View of the Isolation Traverse

We enjoyed a beautiful sunset that night from one of my favorite places in the N Cascades with the whole range in view in alpenglow.  We awoke early to unfrozen soft snow as expected which confirmed our decision for a tour of Klawatti and Austera.  We had a few creavasses to negotiate and roped up, but the traverse went easily.  We reached Austera by about 8am, and after a nice break to take in the views, we had a great run on softening snow toward Klawatti Lake.  We were pleased to have no sluffs, but stopped well short of the lake to avoid a steeper roll and evident cracks.


Paul descends the Klawatti Glacier
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Left, the Forbidden Cirque. Right, Mt. Johannesburg
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We then toured around Klawatti crossing over to the McAllister Glacier by the Smokestack.  This gave us new views into the Isolation Traverse which gave further evidence to limited snow on the descent from Backbone Ridge making us feel better about our decision.  We returned to camp and decided to head out to get home early.  However a couple of events intervened.  The first was nearly disastorous.  Just a few hundred feet above the boulder field, we had to transition and take off skis due to a break in the snow from rocks.  Paul clicked in and goes.  I clicked in one ski, then struggled with the next.  5 minutes passed, still not working.  Tired and with the heavy pack weighing on my every move, I finally got in and took off across the somewhat steep slope on firm snow with lots of debris and rocks below.  I took a careful turn and suddenly a ski ejected, broke loose and I was down, sliding.  I wasn't in!  In seconds, my speed picked up, and I'm wondering...but luckily after about 50 feet, my pack slammed into a rock, I stopped, and escaped with a few scrapes and bruises.  I searched and found my ski.  With a sore shoulder, I had doubts about the long descent on the boulder field below.   But I got it together and got down.  Lesson learned, the hard way.  You REALLY have to check these bindings to make sure they are securely in.  This was never a problem with tele and makes me pause to think a ski can come off.  Needless-to-say, I'm reevaluating my procedure and rereading earlier threads on this subject.
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Left, Sunset from Tepeh Col. Center, Paul climbing with Johannesburg behind. Right, Dorado Needle and Marble Needle (Pt 8400 crossing of Backbone Ridge)
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We reached the river crossing about 6pm and the creek was running over the log crossing after the long hot day.  It looked like some big steps into the water to get over, so we opted to spend the night.  I awoke that night to big flashes of light, wondering if it was from hitting my head on the rock.  Thankfully it really was lightening!  The next morning the water had abated, and we crossed easily.  But it wasn't the same to get back to the car for beer at 6am  ???  We retrieved Paul's car and had a nice breakfast at Clark's with the locals.

A bit of an adventure for sure, and a great reconnaissance of the Isolation Traverse which I am sure to go back for.  Thanks to Lowell for paving the way on these trips and his inspiration: 

The Isolation Traverse http://www.alpenglow.org/skiing/isolation-1994/index.html
The Forbidden Tours and Turns http://www.alpenglow.org/skiing/forbidden-2002/index.html