June 28, 2008, Baker - Park + Talum off Sherman

Monika, Dave, and I headed up a couple of hours last night to Crag View and found an excellent bivy site, dry, beauty of a sunset.  Got going at 5 am this morning and on top 3 hours later.  The Park Headwall looked good, snow felt ok to turn in and had softened up.  A few careful turns and some sideslipping confirmed icy hard conditions underneath.  Suddenly I hit a spot with much more ice and I fell and went for a ride.  Tried to arrest with my Grivel Condor which I feel is good for self belaying, but no good for arresting.  Lost my poles quickly, worked very hard to get feet down the hill and face in.  Trying to work the skis in (tele skis) - hard.  After sliding a bit the snow softened up and I worked very hard and was able to arrest with my hands and arms.  Stopped before bergschrund.  Got a bit of a scare on that one.  Dave chose to downclimb from his spot and Monika carefully side slipped while self belaying with her ax.  Found both my poles (they had cleared the schrund).  After taking a break and gaining some composure we headed for the col on the E side of the crater and climb Sherman from there.  The traverse across from the Park and over the Boulder Gl had a couple of spicy spots with bridges and sections that might not be for long.  Skied down the Talum Gl and angled traverse back to camp and to car.  Friends skiing the Squak Gl reported excellent conditions (even Roman Wall) when they headed down from the top at 12:30 or so.