Eldorado, North Cascades, June 14, 2008

Eli and I sought some action off the Cascade River Rd.  The drive up proved to provide some action though of the wrong gender and species all together.  Buzzing along the freeway outside of Sedro Wooley around 11pm, we encountered a hitchhiker waving his thumb in the middle of the road followed by some deer.  We pullled up to find 6 other cars along the road.  By midnight the pads were laid out next to the car but I nor Eli could sleep.  Eventually I might have squeezed 30 minutes as did Eli, but I would constantly wake to something sniffing my bag and it wasn't Eli, he assured me.

3am came around quick.  One look at the woods, too dark, so back to bed.  4am rolled around.  Still not enough light.  Shortly after 5am we were navigating the blow downs across the road and the avalanche of trees, rocks, snow and dirt that had taken out the road.  Besides that, the mile or so hike went smooth on gravel.

After crossing two sections of river by logs the steep hike in the trees ensued.  The trail down low was in bad shape.  Very interpretive at times.  As we climbed, the trail improved but remained interpretive in certain spots.

After navigating 2k of trees and some short boulder fields Eli and I found ourselves on continuous snow.  We traded the tennis shoes for our boots.  It was still easier to boot due to the snow being so firm.  We saw a group of two climbers that were ahead of us by 500 ft.  Appeared they dawned crampons.

Eli hiking with Johanesberg in the background...


After a 1k or so, the terrain flattened a bit and boot penetrations through the frozen crust grew deeper so I switched to skins.  Our skin tracks were barely visible.  If we had been 30 minutes earlier, like the climbers ahead, it would not have been an issue.  Or maybe we are just too heavy.

After gaining a steep 50 ft. section via boots and crampons, we saw our objective, Eldorado.  After a fun down climb, Eli navigated the moat and I stuck to the rocks, we found ourselves on the Eldorado Glacier.  The snow surface was still frozen so we continued to boot.  Eventually we started to posthole and switched to skinning.

Well unfortunately, Eli had to pick up his sister who was arriving at SeaTac at 5pm so we had to turn around at noon.  We topped out on a flat bench around 7,500 ft. where the Inspiration Glacier starts and enjoyed our Guinesses while watching the two climbers ahead of move slowing up Eldorado's shoulder.

Surrounding views...
Forbidden...


Klawati...


After a some food, we packed up diapers (harness) and rope and started our descent.  The corn was rip to perfection.

Eli harvesting...


Eli waiting down below...


One more shot of the gnar on Johanesberg...


The hike down felt like it went slower than the hike up.  We couldn't find the river crossing so we had to find another log.  Eli found a narrow one to cross that bounced around.  It appeared as though Eli had exerted alot of energy in doing so.  I got a quarter of the way across and just jumped in.  Water was only thigh deep and it felt so good, except almost getting swept down river.

Did we make it in time to pick up Eli's sister at the airport?  Well that's another adventure...